Inform on Leather and Tips #2

 Inform on Leather and Tips #2

During Pandemic time frame, I have been reading on leather craft blog , or any related topic and surf web site, view training video from You Tube of related leather craft and other related topic of interest.

Just to share some interesting points and useful inform (it depend on each individual background experience and skill). Since I am not an expert on leather craft and still in the learning phase as moving forward.

Notice leather craft is very wide scope and require a wide range of skill set for certain project. 

Some of the video which are from You Tube shows on each project like tote bag or leather belt as example.

 For each type of tote bag design it require different tools, method to use , specific technique required, skill set to create a tote bag project. 

Hence there are a number of way to create a tote bag. Share some of tote bag design from You Tube which have certain interesting way in fabricate tote bag on so many type to suit each user needs.

Update on 1st April 2022

https://www.libertyleathergoods.com/leather-working-tools/

Guide to the Leather Working Tools You Need: Beginner & Pro

Leatherworking is an exciting craft to get into. You might be curious what tools you’ll need for different projects or even styles of leather craft. Let’s take a look into all of the leather working tools.

The leather working tools you’ll need, when starting leather craft as a beginner or even with experience can include awls, bevelers, burnishers, cutters, gouges, glues, groovers, mauls, pricking irons, punches, skivers, stamps, sewing items, and a cutting mat. Specifics will depend on the project.

https://www.libertyleathergoods.com/history-of-leather/

The Incredible History of Leather

Leather is an incredible material that has been used throughout history for clothing and tools. The early processes used to make leather, and craft with it, remain very similar to some of those still used today. The history of leather and leather craft has very close ties to people all around the world.

https://www.libertyleathergoods.com/punching-leather/

Punching Leather: Tools and Tips from a Crafter

Leathercrafters may need various tools during their crafting process. I learned that some punching leather tools are essential and can’t be replaced easily while some others can have substitute tools or methods.

Punching leather is a core skill in leathercraft and is done to produce holes, cut edges, cut patterns, and set hardware. Punch tools come in various shapes and sizes based on need and are often struck with a hammer or mallet on a thick, protected surface. Most projects will use leather punching.

Let’s have a look at the different types of leather punching and which tools to use during the process.

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Update on 12th Nov 2020.

Making A Leather Tote Bag / With Top Zip Closure

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlPG4ewqYiY

•24 Aug 2019 Taeyarh Leather  (29:43 minutes)

It is a Tote Bag or Shopper Bag that I have wanted to make since the old days. After thinking about how to make it, I decided to zip it up. I didn't want to see anything or spill anything. So I chose a Zipper Bag instead of a Magnetic Bag.

Size : mm

length :         350

Height : 270

Width : 80

Drop : 530

Leather : Embossed Leather 1.5T , Lining : Herringbone style Fabric

#Taeyarh#TaeyarhLeather#Totebag

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++ Note work in progress ++ as I am still learning from other and gather as much inform.. stay tune. 

Thank you.

Update on 11th Nov 2020

1) Sewing Machine Problems: The Most Common Issues. By Jack Creeks (28 Feb 2017)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgHxs6ukadM.

2) Sewing machine maintenance Tension. By Man sewing (6 Jun 2016)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSSHUjOsVUw

3) Tips For Sewing Over Multiple Layers Of Fabric Flawlessy - 

by Christopher Nejman (11 May 2020 )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMhYkJchJJQ&t=413s

4) Sewing Machine Thread Tension Adjustment - 

by Sherya Fashion (31 Mar 2020)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-n1X1hDAyc

5)Sewing Machine Tension Issues SOLVED. By EverythingEboni

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDClSCtmPgA

Update on 07th Dec 2020

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Making a Simple Leather Belt

 •1 Sept 2013                  by  Ian Atkinson  (52:23 minutes)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpEmkRlv1Uo

Buy my patterns and leather goods here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LeodisLeather

► For more information see: http://ianatkinson.net/leather/videos... 

This video has been replaced by a newer version which is build along number 9 available from my shop in the link above. The new video includes a 4 hour tutorial video as well as an accompanying PDF pack and includes much more detail and techniques than shown here.

In this video I am making a simple leather belt, there won't be any tooling or other fancy things it's just the basics to get you started! Sometimes people ask about dog collars, remember that's the same thing only shorter and with a D ring riveted onto the back for the lead.

 If you'd like some strap end templates try Black River Laser, they have lots of different ones:

 ► http://www.blackriverlaser.com/

 Here is Nigel's video about sewing in belt keepers (no sense in me showing you the same thing!):

 ► http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffI76U...

 ●▬▬▬▬▬INDEX▬▬▬▬▬▬●

 00:00 Intro

03:27 Measuring out a Belt

06:28 Determining the Holes

07:43 Strap Cutting

12.58 Marking and Skiving the Buckle End

19:59 Applying Finishes

22:13 Marking the Tongue

24:31 Bevelling

28:52 Burnishing

35:31 Edge Paints

37:38 Buckle Fitting

41:38 Fitting the Keeper

50:40 Punching the Holes

** note at  index 09:24 this tutorial is very interesting as he explain clearly, example on how to use a belt strap cutter tools. He also teach a good technique to cut leather belt using this basic tools.

 **note at  index 08:20 .He also point out before cutting any leather piece is check both side of leather quality to get good belt project.

** note at  index 14:04 this is where he share tips to select the appropriate leather end for buckle side and for the pointed end.

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Making an English Oak Bark Leather Belt 4K

•22 Jan 2017 by  Ian Atkinson (13:54 minutes)

► Buy my patterns and leather goods here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LeodisLeather

► For more information see: http://ianatkinson.net/leather/videos... 

Would you like to make this belt yourself? If so please purchase build along number 9 from my shop link above which includes a 4 hour tutorial video as well as an accompanying PDF pack.

In this video I am making a simple and traditional belt from English oak bark leather. The leather comes from Britain's last remaining oak bark tannery which is J&FJ Baker in Colyton, Devon (no affiliation).

If you'd like to make your own belts please have a look at my tutorial video:

►https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpEmk...

The video was filmed in 4K using an iPhone 7 as a bit of an experiment!

** note at  index 8:25 it show how to stitch belt with stitching pony and other tools to prevent buckle head bending over.

End of document  👴   👴

Leather repair executive bag ( Bag Handle )

 Leather repair executive bag ( Bag Handle )

This executive bag repair require other attention beside it worn off corners.

Please refer to a repair post which is related to this executive bag. Title of post is ( Leather repair executive bag - bottom corner ).

However this repair project is to concentrate on executive bag handle worn off . Which is broken into a few repair as they are inter related.

F: LimDATA/ leatherProjectJune2019/ ThamSHBag

As this repair for a broken handle system ( Handle support and D link, strap support and hand wrap). 

There are a few broken parts need to fix :- 

1. To remove the defective Handle system, it need to remove certain part of the bag first before can gain access thru flap rear (bag cover flap) .

2. Only when the rear flap is open up, next step of repair can proceed.

3. First all four brass rivet need to be remove. The handle support will be free to remove D link, strap support handle, and hand wrap.

Rear flap with top cloth layer remove, it have an aluminium bar where four rivet was used to attached handle support pad where it a "D ring" wrapped around.

Before the black cloth was remove there is two "ear" need remove thread near to bag edge. 

Note:- the top black cloth held in place by the two "ear" leather and stitches at the edge are worn off and broken thread.

Underneath the black cloth is a thin white cloth act as interface to reduce friction between aluminium bar and some hard card board

Once the rear flap is open up the underneath parts to hold the handle system is more accessible and repair can proceed.

== == == == Update 19th Oct 2020

After remove top cover on flap there is an aluminium bar was noted.

This bar is to support the external handle.

Hence need to remove all brass rivet before proceed to replace all defective leather.

Note:- extra care is required as there leather and soft leather parts is very close to the area.

Share some tools used for remove top cover inside the flap.

Need extra care required to minimize damage as the leather is very soft and some parts is slight damage thru wear and tear.

Use drill bit to remove all brass rivet.

For this it best to use pilot drill to create small hole as the rivet head are smooth and convex in shape.

This make it challenging to remove them without damage other area.

Tips. another best practice is to file the brass dome shape flat by using a needle file. Then make pilot drill hole for correct drill bit to remove rivet easier. 

To remove brass rivet it be good to drill the other end of rivet with drill.

Tools to separate the rivet from aluminium bar.

Do not discard old rivet, as it it is important to determine the new rivet length.

This is how the old rivet head is drilled to make it easier to remove them

Use a flat screw driver to pry the aluminium bar to separate the rivet

This way to remove rivet with minimize damage to leather part and reduce damage to aluminium bar

Drawing on the "handle support", this measurement help to cut the required leather part.

Take into consideration the number of stitch hole to punch and the spacing between hole.

Name of parts in this repair for handle.

To measure new rivet length to cut

Remove damage of "strap to support hand warp" leather. In preparation to cut new parts for repair.

Use thickness gage to make measurement on old "strap to support hand warp". This one way to learn how the original part are assemble.

Damage handle to replace

    Use sewing machine to stitch certain parts ("strap to support hand warp" ).

This is how the "strap to support hand warp" is slowly rebuilt for repair.

This part need numerous parts of leather to be folded for repair.

This how hand wrap handle, follow the original part to copy.

Wrap with strap to get the required shape before start stitching work

This how the "strap to support hand warp" is stitch up after hole are punch.

To punch hole on leather part also require tools and skill to minimize other area.

This is how the final hand wrap are stitch.

Final repair done

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Leather repair executive bag ( bottom corner ) - - レザーリペアエグゼクティブバッグ（底角）

 Repair leather executive bag ( bottom corner )

This leather bag repair is very challenging as it have different parts of the bag need attention.

Due to it usage the wear and tear is normal after over 15 years of usage.

This project is to concentrate on executive bag bottom with opening at corner of bag. 

There two parts to perform:- 

1) Broken thread between joint

2) Worn off leather at corner (expose inner part is visible). There are four corners on each side, total eight corner to repair.

このプロジェクトは、バッグの隅に開口部のあるエグゼクティブバッグの底部に焦点を当てています。

実行する部分は 2 つあります:-

1) ジョイント間のねじ山が切れた

2) 角の革が剥がれています（内側が露出しています）。 修理するコーナーは各辺に 4 つあり、合計 8 つあります。

LimDATA/ LeatherProjectJune2019 /THAMSHBag

Overall view of the executive bag , bottom section.

The wear and tear have resulted on surface leather expose inner parts. 

As the high contact point is evident where the top layer disappear and exposed inner part is visible.

エグゼクティブバッグの底部の全体図。

表面の革に磨耗があり、内側の部分が露出しています。

最上層が消えて露出した内部部分が見える場所では、高い接触点が明らかです。

Closer view of bag to shows wear and tear .

There two parts to perform:-  

1) Broken thread between joint 

2) Worn off leather at corner (expose inner part is visible for all eight corner).

バッグを詳しく見ると、磨耗が見られます。

実行する部分は 2 つあります:-

1) ジョイント間のねじ山が切れた

2) 角の革が剥げている（8 角全て内側が露出している）。

For this repair case where the thread is broken or missing, fixing is straight forward.

Simple stitching to close the broken thread resulted in gap to get the repair resolved.

ネジ山が壊れたり紛失したりしたこの修理ケースの場合、修正は簡単です。

切れた糸を閉じるための単純なステッチでは、修復するための隙間が生じました。

Use awl to check on hole spacing and confirm how to re stitch wear and tear corner area.

Tips:- in this repair the worn off layer remain intact so to make repair easier and repair selected area.

If remove part of the worn off layer it will involve alot of work. Reason being the lining is wrapped around the whole bag edge.

千枚通しを使用して穴の間隔を確認し、コーナー部分の磨耗や破れを再度ステッチする方法を確認します。

ヒント: - この修復では、摩耗した層はそのまま残るため、修復が容易になり、選択した領域を修復できます。

摩耗した層の一部を除去すると、多大な作業が必要になります。 その理由は、裏地がバッグの端全体に巻き付けられているためです。

An other view of awl pin to verify stitch point.

ステッチポイントを確認するための錐ピンの別の図。

Prepare marking to measure the hole distance.

穴の距離を測定するためのマーキングを準備します。

Tools for this repair project.

1. Lighter

2. needle set

3.thread clipper

4. head light.

5. magnifying glass

6. awl #3.

The tools required might vary as the repair progress.

この修理プロジェクトに使用するツール。

1. ライター

2. 針セット

3.糸切り

4.ヘッドライト。

5. 虫眼鏡

6.千枚通し #3。

必要な工具は、修復の進行に応じて異なる場合があります。

Verify the strip length to cut for repair.

The strip length is determine or verify for all four corner . This way the warp around are consistent length.

修理のために切断するストリップの長さを確認してください。

ストリップの長さは、4 隅すべてについて決定または検証されます。 こうすることで、縦糸の長さが一定になります。

Warp a leather strip to confirm it length and wrap around requirement.

A line is drawn to match the corner edge for stitching guide.

革ストリップを反らせて長さを確認し、要件に巻き付けます。

ステッチガイドのコーナーエッジに合わせて線が引かれます。

Use a divider to verify the stitch gap and measure with ruler.

デバイダーを使用してステッチギャップを確認し、定規で測定します。

Use a ruler to mark point ,gap distance and punch.

Line drawn base on measurement.

定規を使用して、ポイント、ギャップ距離、パンチをマークします。

測定に基づいて描かれた線。

Punch hole with awl, as did not have punch with 5 mm gap spacing.

5 mm のギャップ間隔のパンチがなかったので、千枚通しで穴をあけます。

Punch hole on both side, to ensure consistent distance for both side to stitch.

Tips:- found it better to punch hole on one side as during process of stitching the needle hole might not match on both side.

両側にパンチ穴をあけて、両側のステッチまでの距離を一定にします。

ヒント: - ステッチの過程で針穴が両側で一致しない可能性があるため、片側に穴を開ける方が良いことがわかりました。

Estimate thread length for stitching use , for this found it need about 5.5 times the thread length is needed.

It recommend to factor in the thickness of the stitch required.

ステッチに使用する糸の長さを見積もると、必要な糸の長さの約 5.5 倍が必要であることがわかりました。

必要なステッチの太さを考慮に入れることをお勧めします。

Use clips to hold the strip while stitching the corner.

Notice if the corner are clipped on the leather will follow the corner shape.

コーナーをステッチする間、クリップを使用してストリップを保持します。

角をクリップすると、革が角の形状に従うことに注意してください。

At time use an awl tips to guide the needle follow thru.

時々、千枚通しの先端を使用して、針のフォロースルーをガイドします。

This is one way to guide the needle path with help of awl. At time the path and direction is difficult for thread to pass thru.

Try use this method to do stitching, as the edge is too thick for smooth stitching.

これは、千枚通しを使って針の通り道をガイドする 1 つの方法です。 時々、糸が通りにくい経路と方向があります。

端が厚すぎるとスムーズなステッチができないため、この方法でステッチを行ってみてください。

How to terminate the thread, is to back stitch and cut thread.

糸の始末は返し縫いして糸を切ります。

Estimate thread length for stitching use , for this found it need about 5.5 times the thread length is needed.

It recommend to factor in the thickness of the stitch required.

ステッチに使用する糸の長さを見積もると、必要な糸の長さの約 5.5 倍が必要であることがわかりました。

必要なステッチの太さを考慮に入れることをお勧めします。

Comparing thickness between each bottom edge.

各下端の厚さを比較します。

Each corner have slight difference in width. this pose challenge for strip cut to various .

Hence cut strip.

各コーナーの幅は若干異なります。 このポーズはさまざまなストリップカットに挑戦します。

したがって、ストリップをカットします.

 

                                        End of document 👴